The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and has for its object the use of extracts of Bambara (also called arachid nut or pistachio bean) nut seeds in a cosmetic product or composition, as well as a corresponding cosmetic product or composition.
Bambara nut (Voandzeia subterranea (L) Thouars) is a seed of African origin used locally as a vegetable. It is an indigenous African vegetable cultivated principally by farmers as a xe2x80x9cfamine culturexe2x80x9d, one of its principal characteristics being its tolerance for drought and poor soil and its ability to grow under conditions unsuitable for arachids (peanuts).
Bambara nut seeds, which constitute a complete foodstuff, contain proteins, carbohydrates and lipids and can be consumed at different stages of maturation.
Their chemical composition (g/100 g of flour or per 100 g of dried seeds) is as follows:
proteins: 16 to 21%,
starch: 39 to 49.5%,
tannins (equivalent to tannic acid): 0.36 to 0.94%,
lipids: 5 to 7.3%,
ash: 3.65%.
It is known that the seed of Voandzeia subterranea contains protease inhibitors and the trypsic inhibition activity estimated by the so-called Kakade technique is according to the literature from 6.7 to 15.4 TUI/mg of flour, the functional properties of the protein isolates of said seed having been analyzed for food purposes.
However, the inventors have discovered, in a surprising manner, that the extracts of seeds of Voandzeia subterranea (Bambara nut), particularly the protein extracts, can be used directly in cosmetic products or compositions and permit providing specific properties and obtaining notable particular effects.
Thus, there has been noted a strong nutritive and cellular stimulant power, a softening and biofilmogenic effect, cutaneous conditioning and repair effects, anti-wrinkle effects, tightening effect, dermal protective and elastic tissue protective effects, as well as anti-irritant, anti-free radical, anti-pollution, hydrating, anti-UVB and anti-UVA photo-protection, passifying, anti-proteases, anti-elastases, anti-collagenases, anti-catalase and anti-aging and cutaneous firming effects. Bioconditioning, reparative, softening and vitalizing effects have been observed for the hair and nails after application of the mentioned extracts.
The first object of the present invention accordingly consists in the use of at least one soluble protein fraction extracted from seeds of Bambara (Voandzeia subterranea) nuts as an active agent in a cosmetic product or composition for the skin and/or the hair, nails and eyelashes.
The mentioned extracts can be used, not only for it skin care and hygiene applications (products for the face and body, day or night products, solar products, anti-wrinkle hygienic products, or thinning products), but also in the field of capillary care and hygiene (lotions or shampoos, creams, mousses, protective products, separators, softeners, filmogenic products and photo protectors or again products for perms and coloring).
The preparation of soluble protein extracts is carried out by conventional techniques for the extraction of vegetable proteins and for the preparation of protein concentrates or isolates, known to those skilled in the art.